Visiting Brazil
Belo Horizonte, City of Bars
The New York Times gets it right about Belo's bar scene!
A Town Where All the World Is a Bar
Lalo de Almeida for The New York Times
BELO HORIZONTE, in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais, has managed to become the country’s third-largest city while remaining almost completely unknown to the outside world. If tourists more drawn to the sybaritic pleasures of Rio de Janeiro or the urban clamor of São Paulo know it at all, it is because they may pass through it on their way to Ouro Preto and Diamantina, treating it as a little more than a refueling stop as they head toward those picturesque colonial-era mining towns.
Its international anonymity was born of no coastline and thus no beaches, no famous Carnival and thus no February madness, and no big attractions save a few buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer that pale next to his famous works in Brasília.
But Beagá, the city’s nickname (from the pronunciation of its initials in Portuguese), does have a claim to fame: as the bar capital of Brazil. Not bars as in slick hotel lounges or boozy meat markets, but bars as in botecos, informal sit-down spots where multiple generations socialize, drink beer and often have an informal meal. If you believe the local bluster, there are 12,000 bars in the city, more per capita than anywhere else in the country. Why, no one is completely sure, but one theory has turned into a popular saying: "Não tem mares, tem bares." Loosely: "There are no seas, thus there are bars."
[Read the whole article]
A Town Where All the World Is a Bar
Lalo de Almeida for The New York Times
BELO HORIZONTE, in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais, has managed to become the country’s third-largest city while remaining almost completely unknown to the outside world. If tourists more drawn to the sybaritic pleasures of Rio de Janeiro or the urban clamor of São Paulo know it at all, it is because they may pass through it on their way to Ouro Preto and Diamantina, treating it as a little more than a refueling stop as they head toward those picturesque colonial-era mining towns.
Its international anonymity was born of no coastline and thus no beaches, no famous Carnival and thus no February madness, and no big attractions save a few buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer that pale next to his famous works in Brasília.
But Beagá, the city’s nickname (from the pronunciation of its initials in Portuguese), does have a claim to fame: as the bar capital of Brazil. Not bars as in slick hotel lounges or boozy meat markets, but bars as in botecos, informal sit-down spots where multiple generations socialize, drink beer and often have an informal meal. If you believe the local bluster, there are 12,000 bars in the city, more per capita than anywhere else in the country. Why, no one is completely sure, but one theory has turned into a popular saying: "Não tem mares, tem bares." Loosely: "There are no seas, thus there are bars."
[Read the whole article]
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Visiting Argentina
Transfer airports in Argentina EZE/AEP
The transfer between Buenos Aires EZE (international) airport and Jorge Newbery/AEP (domestic) airport is like most intra-city airport transfers. Generally close, the drive can take between 30 minutes and 2+ hours depending on traffic and your driver.
Getting into Buenos Aires Ezeiza, you can prebook a car service, take a bus or take a taxi. Tienda Leon is a well known transport service worth looking into. "Aeroparque" is AEP/Jorge Newbery. The transfer should cost between $15 USD and $40 USD depending on the quality of your transport operation.
Getting into Buenos Aires Ezeiza, you can prebook a car service, take a bus or take a taxi. Tienda Leon is a well known transport service worth looking into. "Aeroparque" is AEP/Jorge Newbery. The transfer should cost between $15 USD and $40 USD depending on the quality of your transport operation.
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Visiting Colombia
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Visiting Venezuela
Merida Venezuela
The Andes arguably begin just southeast of Venezuela's capital, Caracas. The mountains run due west to Barquisimeto from where they form the considerably higher Cordillera de Mérida which extends to the Colombian border. The Andes' first (but neither northernmost nor easternmost) 5,000m peak lies in this range which is the only area in Venezuela that accumulates snow.
When Venezuelans tire of beaches, humidity, and urban blight, they head to Mérida, the country's only mountain resort. The small (pop:150,000), clean town is perched on a grassy ledge above the Chama River. Mérida is dominated by a towering corona of peaks including, from east to west, Humboldt (4942m), Bompland (4882m), Bolívar (5,007m; 16,427ft), Toro (4,755m), and León (4,740m). Access to the mountains is greatly facilitated by a tram system which leads to the top of Pico Espejo (4,765m). The trams ascends 3,188m (10,459ft) from a plaza a few blocks from the center of town. Although it is also alleged to be the longest tram in the world (12,590m; 41,306ft), there are actually four distinct tram lines. Backpacks and skis are allowed at no extra charge in the cars (US$5). The tram opens at 7:30am and lines begin to form at 6:00am. Arrive early to avoid long lines and to enjoy clearer mornings. Reservations are required in high season.
In spite of the skiing image presented in Mérida, very little skiing actually takes place. Skiing is limited due to the lack of enduring snowfields, slope steepness, and the perils of the glaciers. The most skied run lies near the top of the tram, but skiing is not encouraged here as the slope ends in a cliff. Other peaks and glaciers are best reached with technical hikes from the top of the tram. A park permit is required to leave the top station and is obtained at a booth at the base of the tram. The Club Andino Venezolano is now defunct, but a good rescue organization is active in the area. Guides and mountaineering equipment are widely available. For more information, seek the Casa de Guias or Tour de Montaña both located in the plaza at the base of the tram.
When Venezuelans tire of beaches, humidity, and urban blight, they head to Mérida, the country's only mountain resort. The small (pop:150,000), clean town is perched on a grassy ledge above the Chama River. Mérida is dominated by a towering corona of peaks including, from east to west, Humboldt (4942m), Bompland (4882m), Bolívar (5,007m; 16,427ft), Toro (4,755m), and León (4,740m). Access to the mountains is greatly facilitated by a tram system which leads to the top of Pico Espejo (4,765m). The trams ascends 3,188m (10,459ft) from a plaza a few blocks from the center of town. Although it is also alleged to be the longest tram in the world (12,590m; 41,306ft), there are actually four distinct tram lines. Backpacks and skis are allowed at no extra charge in the cars (US$5). The tram opens at 7:30am and lines begin to form at 6:00am. Arrive early to avoid long lines and to enjoy clearer mornings. Reservations are required in high season.
In spite of the skiing image presented in Mérida, very little skiing actually takes place. Skiing is limited due to the lack of enduring snowfields, slope steepness, and the perils of the glaciers. The most skied run lies near the top of the tram, but skiing is not encouraged here as the slope ends in a cliff. Other peaks and glaciers are best reached with technical hikes from the top of the tram. A park permit is required to leave the top station and is obtained at a booth at the base of the tram. The Club Andino Venezolano is now defunct, but a good rescue organization is active in the area. Guides and mountaineering equipment are widely available. For more information, seek the Casa de Guias or Tour de Montaña both located in the plaza at the base of the tram.
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Visiting Ecuador
Bus it to Banos! (Baños)
Banos (or properly, Baños) lies in the heart of Ecuador, close to the rainforest and surrounded by majestic mountains. On the three-hour drive from Quito, you can admire the magnificent and famous Avenue of the Volcanoes, with Cotopaxi, a perfect cone of eternal snow. Chimborazo, the furthest peak away from the earth's center and Tungurahua, probably the easiest volcano to climb in Ecuador.
Baños is a place for relaxing while enjoying the therapeutic hot springs, unspoiled green surroundings and breathtaking waterfalls. The town's exceptional location offers a combination of colors and light that has inspired painters and poets alike. It is with good reason that artists such as Montalvo, Leon Vieira and Oscar Efren Reyes have been living in this pretty resort town for years. Today, several galleries offer painting and sculptures by talented local artists.
Baños' night life is among Ecuador's most exciting: cinema, cafe theater, bars, clubs, street music, etc...
Melcocha, Ecuador's most famous candy, also originates in Baños. Made from sugar cane, hung from a hook and beaten against the door frame, this taffy is an integral part of the Baños landscape, and something of which the locals are proud.
Baños's basilica Santuario de Baños, dominating the main square, was built with volcanic rock in the 1920s. It was constructed in the gothic style and contains illustrations of the miracles of the Virgin - a reflection of popular art. Since the Pope canonized the Virgin of the Holy Water in 1959, Baños has attracted visitors from all over Ecuador.
Baños is a place for relaxing while enjoying the therapeutic hot springs, unspoiled green surroundings and breathtaking waterfalls. The town's exceptional location offers a combination of colors and light that has inspired painters and poets alike. It is with good reason that artists such as Montalvo, Leon Vieira and Oscar Efren Reyes have been living in this pretty resort town for years. Today, several galleries offer painting and sculptures by talented local artists.
Baños' night life is among Ecuador's most exciting: cinema, cafe theater, bars, clubs, street music, etc...
Melcocha, Ecuador's most famous candy, also originates in Baños. Made from sugar cane, hung from a hook and beaten against the door frame, this taffy is an integral part of the Baños landscape, and something of which the locals are proud.
Baños's basilica Santuario de Baños, dominating the main square, was built with volcanic rock in the 1920s. It was constructed in the gothic style and contains illustrations of the miracles of the Virgin - a reflection of popular art. Since the Pope canonized the Virgin of the Holy Water in 1959, Baños has attracted visitors from all over Ecuador.
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Visiting Chile
El Colorado Hints and Tips for Skiing
Most skiers will stay above the base lodge at Villa Colorado. Below this point the trails are mostly rated beginner except adjacent to the Embudo lift where slalom training courses are often set. The highlight of the mountain is still the Silla Colorado which ascends to the top of the mountain. It is the only lift to reach the summit and often closes in inclement weather conditions. The double-griped chairs bounce radically over each of the 23 erector-towers, but the antiquated chair still runs almost as fast as the modern triple chairs that parallel it.
Beginner skiers will find the best trails alongside the Los Zorros T-Bars although Colorado Chico, Pinguino, and the Novicios Farellones lifts provide plenty of alternatives. The El Condor runs are wide, groomed trails with a consistent pitch which will appeal to intermediate skiers. Advanced skiers should try the Cono Este run for a long and steep pitch with a broad view of Valle Nevado.
Expert skiers will find more excitement at El Colorado than at any of the neighboring resorts. Two areas should be investigated. The first is low on the mountain, just above the lowest beginner lifts. Here, the narrow and vertical Corredores chutes and walls are perched side by side between the Embudo lift and the major chute called Falsoembudo (false funnel). Access this cliff area from the top of either the Embudo lift for the lower, shorter drops, or from Zorros for longer runs and Falsoembudo. If the snow is too thin at those lower elevations, explore the chutes to the skier's right of Cono Este. Do not go too far right as these chutes soon fade into unskiable cliffs.
Good moguls are found at the top of Cornisa although they are often interrupted with traverse trails and human obstacles. The best powder at El Colorado is found in the late opening but sheltered Cono Este which also closes early (4.00pm).
There is less backcountry access from El Colorado's lifts than at either of its neighbors. An area which could be explored is the long cliff area between Cono Este and the Embudo lift. This region can be thoroughly scouted from Valle Nevado's access road where a car could be parked for escape. The chutes and bowls are controlled by Valle Nevado's avalanche protection team since many of the snowfields threaten the road.
Beginner skiers will find the best trails alongside the Los Zorros T-Bars although Colorado Chico, Pinguino, and the Novicios Farellones lifts provide plenty of alternatives. The El Condor runs are wide, groomed trails with a consistent pitch which will appeal to intermediate skiers. Advanced skiers should try the Cono Este run for a long and steep pitch with a broad view of Valle Nevado.
Expert skiers will find more excitement at El Colorado than at any of the neighboring resorts. Two areas should be investigated. The first is low on the mountain, just above the lowest beginner lifts. Here, the narrow and vertical Corredores chutes and walls are perched side by side between the Embudo lift and the major chute called Falsoembudo (false funnel). Access this cliff area from the top of either the Embudo lift for the lower, shorter drops, or from Zorros for longer runs and Falsoembudo. If the snow is too thin at those lower elevations, explore the chutes to the skier's right of Cono Este. Do not go too far right as these chutes soon fade into unskiable cliffs.
Good moguls are found at the top of Cornisa although they are often interrupted with traverse trails and human obstacles. The best powder at El Colorado is found in the late opening but sheltered Cono Este which also closes early (4.00pm).
There is less backcountry access from El Colorado's lifts than at either of its neighbors. An area which could be explored is the long cliff area between Cono Este and the Embudo lift. This region can be thoroughly scouted from Valle Nevado's access road where a car could be parked for escape. The chutes and bowls are controlled by Valle Nevado's avalanche protection team since many of the snowfields threaten the road.
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Visiting Peru
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Visiting Uruguay
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Visiting Paraguay
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Central America
Visiting Panama
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Visiting Honduras
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Visiting Nicaragua
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Visiting Belize
Backcountry Belize in NYTimes
As is the case lately, the NYTimes is focusing on central america lots. This time, it's Belize and covering the interior of the country.
“IF the world had any ends,” Aldous Huxley wrote in 1934, Belize — then known as British Honduras— “would certainly be one of them. It is not on the way from anywhere to anywhere else. It has no strategic value. It is all but uninhabited."
Almost 75 years later, Belize still feels remote. It's roughly the size of Massachusetts, yet it has only a handful of traffic lights. The two-lane road that spans the length of the country is not, in many places, paved. If Huxley were around to be a consumer of American pop culture, however, he'd find that Belize — or at least the strip of it that runs along the Caribbean Sea — has been discovered.
[Full article...]
“IF the world had any ends,” Aldous Huxley wrote in 1934, Belize — then known as British Honduras— “would certainly be one of them. It is not on the way from anywhere to anywhere else. It has no strategic value. It is all but uninhabited."
Almost 75 years later, Belize still feels remote. It's roughly the size of Massachusetts, yet it has only a handful of traffic lights. The two-lane road that spans the length of the country is not, in many places, paved. If Huxley were around to be a consumer of American pop culture, however, he'd find that Belize — or at least the strip of it that runs along the Caribbean Sea — has been discovered.
[Full article...]
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Visiting Guatemala
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Visiting Costa Rica
Driving in Costa Rica
Driving is pretty easy in Costa Rica but not like you'd expect in the US. First off, drivers drive very fast and are not as courteous as you would expect. There are few guardrails and other protections for drivers, so teens and other less experienced drivers should not test their skills here (like most latin countries).
If you do get pulled over by the police, they will usually want a small bribe. You can play dumb and get off with giving them a tip (or "propina") of 5 or 10 US dollars. Similar to the states, they use RADAR guns and other tricks to catch speeders.
If you do get pulled over by the police, they will usually want a small bribe. You can play dumb and get off with giving them a tip (or "propina") of 5 or 10 US dollars. Similar to the states, they use RADAR guns and other tricks to catch speeders.
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Visiting El Salvador
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Visiting Latin America - with real-life stories and suggestions on what hotels are good, where to go, what to see and which airlines to fly.
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