Thursday, July 17, 2008
Portillo Adventure and Nordic Skiing
Portillo has the continent's best avalanche warning system. There is a flagpost in front of the hotel's pool on which the current danger level is indicated with either a red, yellow, or blue flag (explained on a large board in the hotel). In addition, rope and sign closures are often painstakingly set for skiers' protection, an uncommon service in South America.
Many of the local skiers seem to favor the steep hikes in the chutes above the Va et Vients. While a great view of Aconcagua can be had from above the Roca Jack, there are better places to ski that don't require so much exertion for so few turns. The best examples are the lake descents from the Va et Vients. Of the two, Condor provides a slightly longer vertical drop, drier snow (especially in the morning), and greater variety. Conditions are optimum when the lake is frozen and someone has already "broken trail" back to the lifts. On the Roca Jack side, return to Conejo via a traverse across the face of the last knoll above the lake surface.
Another excellent option is the Cancha del Tren. This can be spotted and the route planned by looking right while riding the Juncalillo chairlift. It is the obvious snowfield that fans out to the road with the old railroad tunnel crossing the middle (big air). Access this run with a high traverse from the Condor lift to a point below the border checkpoint where the highway is crossed. At the bottom, cross the road again to return to the Juncalillo chair.
Because of its high elevation and steep terrain, Portillo is not a good place for cross-country skiing. Avalanches frequently threaten the few areas where nordic skiing might be possible. The only terrain really apt for this activity is the frozen lake surface or the area around the Los Libertadores customs station.
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